{"id":73710,"date":"2023-02-28T20:22:32","date_gmt":"2023-02-28T20:22:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.langantiques.com\/university\/?p=73710"},"modified":"2024-08-06T18:34:00","modified_gmt":"2024-08-06T18:34:00","slug":"fifties-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.langantiques.com\/university\/fifties-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Fifties Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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\"French
Textile-Like Texture on a French Looped Ribbon Clip-Brooch in 18K Yellow Gold and Diamonds.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

As the austere and world-weary 1940s morphed into the fabulous and affluent 1950s, gold jewelry retained its popularity but with a twist, a tassel or a texture. Ribbons and bows, flowers and leaves so popular in the 40s, were being rendered in the new more textural style. Gone were the smooth and silky expanses of mirror finish; the satin ribbon-like gold swaths and sinuous swirls were usurped by woven, linked, twisted and textured chunky gold renderings of the same themes. The influence of Abstraction and Surrealism on the art world found it\u2019s way into the design of everyday objects and these same curvilinear shapes began to impact the world of jewelry. Grittier, amplified and articulated three-dimensional textile motifs were employed to set off bold gemstones and make a fearless fashion statement. After the parsimonious war years, the world was ready for flamboyant displays of gems and jewelry.<\/p>

\"Fifties
Fifties Fashion Photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

The world of\u00a0haute couture<\/i>\u00a0sought to celebrate the feminine figure with a wide array of sumptuous fabrics featuring silks, brocades, and lace. In 1947, Christian Dior introduced a new look in fashion that brought femininity back, rejecting the somber wartime silhouette. A fitted bodice and\u00a0d\u00e9collet\u00e9<\/i>\u00a0neckline atop a full skirt flowing out from a tight-fitted waistline called for a newly revised design aesthetic for the fashion\u2019s complimentary jewels and accessories. When it came to jewelry the phrase \u201cthe more the merrier\u201d seemed\u00a0apropos<\/i>.<\/p>

\"A
DeBeers Forevermark “A Diamond is Forever” Slogan.
Photo Courtesy of DeBeers.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

To punctuate this elegant display of elan, diamonds set in platinum swept across the feminine\u00a0d\u00e9colletage<\/i>\u00a0and swirled on lobes newly revealed by upswept hair which was held in place by diamond clips. DeBeers Diamond Corporation ensured that the demand for diamonds would not wane with their \u2018A Diamond is Forever\u2019 campaign. By an ingenious focus on using a multitude of smaller diamonds instead of a large focal gem they were able to promote diamonds to every income level, especially the rapidly growing middle class. They cleverly awarded prizes to jewelers worldwide who encompassed beauty, design, function and most of all, diamonds, in their modern compositions.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Diamond Day-Night Earrings with Baguette Cascade.\nMid-Century\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Mid-Century Diamond and Platinum Brooch.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Emerald-Cut Diamond and Platinum Ring.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"Postcard
Postcard of Place Vend\u00f4me, Paris c.1950.
Photo Courtesy of New York Social Diary.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Harry
Harry Winston Diamond Choker c.1956.
Photo Courtesy of Sotheby’s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Once again, Paris was the center of\u00a0Haute Joaillerie<\/i>\u00a0with the pulse of the jewelry world firmly beating in the\u00a0Place Vend\u00f4me<\/i>\u00a0and on the\u00a0Rue de la Paix<\/i>. The major pre-war jewelry houses,\u00a0Cartier<\/a>,\u00a0Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a>,\u00a0Sterl\u00e9<\/a>\u00a0and others, were still the height of popularity finding a wider audience among the newly prosperous by relying heavily on their pre-war designs while innovating and integrating new looks such as Cartier\u2019s innovations on its iconic panther brooch. American jewelers were raising their profiles with the keen use of designers like Jean\u00a0Schlumberger<\/a>\u00a0for\u00a0Tiffany<\/a>. In New York\u00a0Harry Winston<\/a>\u00a0was in his heyday, securing important diamonds, gems and pearls in dainty, flexible platinum settings. He believed gemstones were the essential element of the jewel; they\u00a0alone<\/i>\u00a0dictated the design. His breathtaking creations were enormously successful with his wealthy clientele.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\"Boucheron
Boucheron Demi-Parure with Turquoise, Sapphires and Diamonds in Gold, c.1955.
Photo Courtesy of Bonham’s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

There was a trend for matching accessories, which fueled an appetite for suites of jewelry or\u00a0demi-parures<\/a>\u00a0rendered in either bold gemstones and gold or in diamonds and platinum. Various combinations led the trend: necklace and earrings,\u00a0dress clips<\/a>\u00a0or\u00a0brooch<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0earrings<\/a>\u00a0or\u00a0bracelet<\/a>\u00a0with brooch or earrings and were required accessories for the new daywear fashions. Earrings for daytime were short but bold and clipped on the ear with nary a dangle. Bracelets were typically textured wide straps and featured articulated woven and twisted motifs that sometimes concealed a\u00a0watch<\/a>.\u00a0chokers<\/a>\u00a0of\u00a0pearls<\/a>, woven gold collars and twisted\u00a0torsades<\/a>, often displaying an elaborate gem laden\u00a0clasp<\/a>, adorned the neck while brooches edged the neckline or bodice.\u00a0Rings<\/a>\u00a0were slower to evolve from the big bold gems of the 40s, but gradually eased into a more elaborate yet genteel style.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Opal Earrings and Pin Jewelry Suite. \n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Picciotti Ruby and Diamond Demi Parure, c.1950s.\nPhoto Courtesy of Sotheby's.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Mid-Century Diamond Leaf Brooch and Earrings in 18K and Platinum.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Brooches<\/h3>

Naturalistic motifs exploring all forms of flora and fauna were more popular than ever and brooches exemplified the trend. Flowers solo and in bunches,\u00a0enameled<\/a>, bejeweled and textured in gold, carved from gemstones or rendered in\u00a0platinum<\/a>\u00a0and diamonds, flourished on every type of jewelry, but most especially on brooches. Leaves and feathers, articulated and stationary, were carved from gem material, woven and\/or textured in gold, and flowed singly and in clusters on the feminine bodice. Accompanying these bouquets and vines were their counterparts from nature, bees, bugs, nuts, and berries. Super serious and raucously ridiculous zoomorphic collections of animals posed and pranced accented by enamel and gemstones of every hue. Not to be left out, undersea life was also in vogue, seahorses, fun fish, crabs, squid, and octopi floated realistically and comically throughout the 1950s.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Diamond and Turquoise Platinum Bellflower Brooch,\nc. Mid-Century.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Whimsical Enamel and Diamond Giraffe Brooch,\nc. Mid-Century.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Carved Emerald and Star Sapphire Floral Clip Brooch, c.1950s.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Earrings<\/h3>

While earrings from this period included both dangling pendant and button styles, the period is known for its gem-laden oversized\u00a0earclips<\/a>. Gold leaves, flowers, spirals clusters, and disks were daywear\u00a0de rigueur<\/i>. Evenings more often glimmered with diamond set clips in a multitude of shapes and designs, some suspending a single large diamond or an entire cascade of smaller diamonds. Large pearls and\u00a0mabe pearls<\/a>\u00a0either alone or with a decorative surround were a classic touch.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Classic Jadeite Ear Clips by Astor,\nMid-Century.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Pair of Articulated Diamond Ear Clips,\nc.1950s.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Stylized Emerald and Diamond Leaf Motif Earrings,\nMid-Century.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Bracelets<\/h3>

Bangles, ropes of pearls, torsades, and gold mesh were popular styles for daywear bracelets. Mesh and wire bracelets flanked delicate watch dials, doubling wristwatch with bracelets for day and evening wear. For evening, a diamond-encrusted bracelet with a large central focal element in a floral, rayed or swirl motif, completed by a slender line of diamonds or diamond strap was a glittering 50s look. Another uniquely 50s style was the charm<\/a> bracelet, serving a dual purpose as jewelry and as an opportunity for personal expression. Amassed as travel mementos, used to mark memorable occasions or collected to just be whimsical, charms were a hot ticket item. Literally, anything was fair game to become a charm dangling from a\u00a0chain<\/a>\u00a0link or\u00a0bangle<\/a>\u00a0bracelet: large disks with engraved dates and messages, articulated novelty items and an amazing variety of everyday items. Clustering as many charms as possible on the bracelet was the goal of most collectors, a few, however, sported a more austere bracelet with one (or a few more) emblems.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Slide Bracelet With Sapphire and Pearl Clasp,\nMid-Century \n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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40 Miniature Charms Depicting - a Kettle Drum a Spinning Fan a Menagerie of Animals and More.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Mid-Century Diamond and Platinum Bracelet. \n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Necklaces<\/h3>

Chokers clinging to the base of the neck were the design of choice for day and evening, perfectly complimenting the open necklines of mid-century fashion. Necklaces came in many forms, but one of the most popular was a\u00a0bib<\/a>\u00a0front tapering to a line of gems or links at the back. For daytime, the composition was usually dominated by yellow gold with lots of texture and colorful gemstones. For evening, diamonds in lines, bibs and with symmetrical and asymmetrical swirl elements and articulated diamond\u00a0fringe<\/a>\u00a0and waterfalls. Rows of larger pearls and gemstone beads, some with elaborate clasps, could transcend the time of day. Multiple strands of smaller beads and pearls were usually worn with a twist as a torsade. While\u00a0tiaras<\/a>\u00a0were once again in style, they were no longer a dedicated jewelry item, so necklaces (and sometimes brooches) did double duty as hair ornaments.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Diamond, Platinum Swag Necklace with Floral Motifs.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Mid-Century Diamond and 18K Yellow Gold Fringe Necklace.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Forstner Yellow Gold Spaghetti Necklace.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Rings<\/h3>

Rings remained large well into the 1950s but the lines softened to more curvilinear outlines. The Bombe ring was trendy and usually dotted or encrusted with colored gemstones. Coiled and twisted wirework superstructures supported large gemstones high atop the finger. Ballerina rings and glimmering gemstone clusters came in a plethora of various sized and shaped stones. Bypass rings were oversized and often highlighted outlandishly large gems and motifs.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Yellow\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Cocktail Ring, c.1950s.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Mid-Century\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
Mid-Century Gemstone Gold Bombe 'Sputnik' Ring. c. late 1950s.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Bow Motif Diamond Ring, c.1950s.\n<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Mid-Century Modern<\/h3>

Growing alongside the traditional jewelry design houses there was a modernist movement of Mid-Century American Studio Jewelers in the United States that took their inspiration from pre-war Europe. Salvador\u00a0Dali<\/a>, Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso and Jean\u00a0Cocteau<\/a>\u00a0were among the artists who inspired American Studio Jewelers to create \u201cJewelry as Art\u201d or \u201cWearable Art. Drawing their inspiration from the philosophies of Bauhaus, Dadaism, Surrealism, Isomorphism and Cubism, the\u00a0modernist<\/a>\u2018s work was characterized by abstract and non-objective form. Creations by Mid-Century American Studio Jewelers were often one-of-a-kind and totally hand fabricated<\/a>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Claire\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
Claire Falkenstein Copper Brooch c.1960.\nPhoto Courtesy of Sotheby's.\nPhoto Courtesy of Sotheby's.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Alexander\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
Alexander Calder Brass Wire Pendant, c.1950.\nPhoto Courtesy of Sotheby's.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Sam\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
Sam Kramer Silver Brooch with Taxidermy Eye. c.1950s.\nPhoto Courtesy of Sotheby's.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Related Reading<\/h3>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"Brutalist<\/div>\n\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tBrutalist Jewelry\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"Modernist<\/div>\n\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tModernist Jewelry\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sources<\/h3>
  • Bennett, David & Mascetti, Daniela. Understanding Jewellery: Woodbridge, Suffolk, England: Antique Collectors\u2019 Club, 2008.<\/li>
  • Raulet, Sylvie. Jewelry of the 1940s and 1950s. London: Thames and Hudson Ltd., 1988.<\/li><\/ul>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    As the austere and world-weary 1940s morphed into the fabulous and affluent 1950s, gold jewelry retained its popularity but with a twist, a tassel or<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":54841,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7715,7740],"tags":[7930],"class_list":["post-73710","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jewelry-history","category-fifties-jewelry","tag-fa","entry","has-media","wvn-thumbs-layout-horizontal","wvn-btn-normal","wvn-tabs-layout-section","has-no-thumbnails"],"yoast_head":"\nFifties Jewelry - Antique Jewelry University<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Fifties Jewelry - 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